I pulled my bike up along the steps at the base of small hill, capped by a glittering wat (Thai for "temple"; same idea behind the name "Angkor Wat", recalling the shared roots and ancient rivalry between the kingdom of Siam and the Khmer Empire). The bike I was using was an old one, like the ones in the old movies of Saigon where straight-backed girls pedaled in droves across busy streets and navigated between Volkswagens. It was rickety, no doubt, rented from the shop near the ticket booth, but every creak and groan seemed appropriate with the atmosphere.
A pair of large wooden gongs, simply cut from the cross-sections of some massive tree, hung from a sort of frame near the steps that led up to the wat. A little girl was playing with them, tapping the large panels with a wooden paddle, the hollow sound mingling with the slight tinkling of bells coming from somewhere, disturbed by the wind. I watched as her parents took pictures. Though the sun was bright, the air was comfortably cool, and the wind was picking up. After a few minutes, the girl and her parents went up the steps.
I looked up at the temple that crowned the hill. I couldn’t appreciate the detail at this distance, but from where I was, it was clear that, although small, the place of worship was beautifully designed. Its roof curved up to the typical point, painted with gold, shining in the sun. Its walls were white, and sunlight glittered off of small mirrors embedded in the columns. Patterns, carved and painted, embellished the entire facade.
The motif of points or cones reaching into the sky, so central to shape of traditional Thai architecture (and head dress), has something to do with the concept of the Buddhist/Hindu cosmos (one will notice that in the history of Southeast Asia, particularly the Thai-Cambodia-Laos-Burma region, the religion was influenced by both Hinduism and Buddhism, filtering in from their roots in South Asia). The center of all things is the holy mountain, Mount Meru. It is proximity to the center that brings power, holiness and prosperity. This sort of of world-view leads to the typical architecture seen in every traditionally Thai structure, from the wats and stupas (symbolic repositories of Buddhist relics) to the roofs of the Thai homes and the head gear of their dancers.
But the concept of the center leads to even further articulation, in the megalopolis of Bangkok. The urban center is the heart of Thailand, and it is the center of every aspect of Thai society: politics, education, business, religion. To be someone, you have to be someone in Bangkok; to wield influence, one must be associated with the center. Buddhist world-view meets human migration patterns.
I stood at the base of the steps, running my hand over the railing, a stylized snake, that greeted comers with all it’s seven heads. This was a representation of Naga, the snake-god who shaded Buddha from the sun with its seven hoods, as the Enlightened One meditated.
Making my way up the steps, I caught the smell of incense and I saw the source of the tinkling sound of bells: adorning the rim of the temple’s roof, hundreds of tiny bells dangled in the wind. Another sound is added to all this: the murmured prayers of the faithful. I remembered that it’s New Years Day, and although this is different from the Buddhist calendar, the combining of cultures made January 1 as much a day of supplication and prayer as any other day of new beginnings.
I realized that I didn’t have a camera, and kicked myself inwardly for the failure to bring one.
Nearby, a woman peddled flowers and incense in exchange for a "donation" of twenty baht. Religion always has a business aspect to it, I don’t care what religion you say it is. At the top of the hill, there are actual iron gongs, and people were saying prayers striking heavy metal disks solemnly. I watched, before removing my shoes to walk into the temple itself.
Inside, the walls were mirrors, giving the impression of a temple that IS the center of an infinite number of temples, stretching out in five directions: left, right, front, behind and above. The floor beneath was smooth dark marble, and in the center of the small place was a stone slab, covered in the tattered gold leaves and coins. I quickly pulled out my guide brochure, and learned that the slab is believed to be the footprint of Buddha. An old woman knelt before it, praying, as she pressed a piece of gold leaf into the slab. She held an incense stick in her hand, and bowed. I moved to another side of the small shrine, and knelt, my feet pointing backwards beneath my knees. If the head is the most holy because of its being associated with the center, the most dirty are the feet, and it is courtesy and religious propriety to not point the feet at either guest or shrine. I kneel, but instead of praying, I took a blue Corona notebook out of my travel bag, with every intention of writing about this experience.
After several minutes of just taking in the place, I noticed a young girl enter. As she went to her knees in front of the stone, she glanced at me. I nodded in reply to her smile. After praying, she then tossed a coin unto the slab. She then stood, getting up hastily and looking into the mirrored walls. I wondered what she was doing, when I realized she had a brush in her hand, and she was gazing intently at herself as she fixed her hair.
Later, I left the temple, and met a group of debaters from the University of La Verne, in California.
"What’s up there?" One of them asked.
I put my notebook back into my travel bag. "It’s like a prayer place, the footprint of Buddha or something."
"Wow. You wanna go up?" one of the girls asked her partner.
He shrugged.
I got on to my bicycle. "You can go up and try praying, just don’t point your feet at the shrine," I added.
The girl grinned, and started up the steps, her camera held eagerly in her hand. "I’m going. See you around!"
I nodded. "Later."
The bicycle creaked and moaned as I set off to find more things to explore.